I bet you are not surprised to see that I have a bit more to say about Harris Tweed. These two ads are from 1951, while Britain was still operating under the utility scheme and clothing rationing. During that time most of the Harris Tweed, (and other British clothing items such as cashmere) was being produced mainly for export, as the trade was badly needed.
As you can see on the fabric scrap in the second ad, there is an actual stamp put on each piece of Harris Tweed, a guarantee that it is the real deal, produced entirely on the Isle of Lewis and Harris in the Outer Hebrides. The orb and cross trademark has been in use since 1911, making this the 100 year anniversary of the usage of the trademark.
Today, each length of finished cloth is still stamped by hand at regular intervals. The Harris Tweed Authority registers every piece produced, and the label always has a number stamped on it for identification purposes. The Harris Tweed Authority has books containing every number, and so they can tell when the piece was made, who the weaver was, and to whom the piece was sold. It’s an amazing historical record, and unless they have put it on computer in the last few years, the books are still referred to whenever a question arises.
Three years ago, the BBC4 did a three part series on the troubled Harris Tweed industry, and though things have changed since then, it is still a very good look at the industry, and the crisis it was facing at that time. For a while in 2008, all the spinning and finishing mills had closed, but today there are three in operation. There have been several high profile collaborations – including one with Nike – this year, and awareness of the historic fabric is increasing.
Do yourself a favor and watch this series, if for no other reason than to see all the fabulous examples of the tweed. There are over 8000 tweed patterns, and the variety is truly amazing. There is also some great historical footage, and for those who like a little drama, there is even a villain!
Amazingly, there is a scene in the documentary where a visitor to the island goes in search of Harris Tweed garments. The only place he found that sells them is the charity shop! I’m always looking for the tweed in my own thrift stores, and I’ve found some really remarkable pieces. Most of what you will find is in the form of men’s jackets and coats for men and women. I look for garments with holes, and then I take the garment apart to use the tweed in projects.
You can also buy lengths of the tweed online, and there are several sites that sell finished products of Harris Tweed. All are beautiful!
I’m now on a mission to find examples of Harris Tweed. Like you say, the variety of colours and patterns are incredible. Industries like Harris Tweed are so important. May they long continue! Thanks for sharing the ads
Mission accomplished, no?! (Click through to CatwalkCreative to see her Harris Tweed find!)
My grandmother talked about Harris Tweed as if it were woven gold. We are Scottish and I never paid a bit of attention. I did know that my grandfather wore Harris Tweed sports coats and she had a lovely peach, grey, and brown threaded Harris Tweed coat. A childhood book I adored once called the hand of tweed “like the tongue of a cat”. I think that’s apt and very nice. Donna at alovelyinconsequence.blogspot
I love the cat’s tongue analogy. Perfect!
cool you’re writing about Harris Tweed – I have been totally obsessed with it since I saw the documentary a couple of weeks ago – I would really really like to go to that store house by the see they show in part 2 – so many colors!
Anne, thanks so much for linking from your Harris Tweed posts.
That storehouse – the stuff of which dreams are made!
Absolutely fastinating!!!
I didn’t comment on your previous post, but I completely agree that ‘no one needs a $7 tee shirt made by Vietnamese child labor.”
My own wardrobe will be recieving an upgrade with that thought in mind.
Thank you.
You are most welcome, Gail.
My family too has an almost mythological reverence for Harris tweeds (my brother ‘scored’ our grandfather’s tweed coat which he now enjoys wearing in Philadelphia). Your post motivated me to see what vintage Harris tweeds are on Etsy. I found some gorgeous vintage women’s coats in yummy colors at amazing prices right now–what a gold mine! But one question: what about that scratchy collar? I doubt I could never get used to it.
Jen, I think the reason the traditional chesterfield coat has a velvet collar is to solve that itchy problem. It would be relatively easy to applique velvet over the tweed.
There is one coat in particular on etsy that has a petal collar that I think is just adorable.
Love these ads (especially the one featuring the Scottie dog) and the fact that it’s the 100 year anniversary of the Orb’s usage! Perfect timing, Lizzie.
I second what Lizzie wrote here–watch that BBC series on the Harris tweed industry. Well worth the time.
whenever I find Harris tweed garment, it makes my day! The quality of the fabric is amazing.
I am very lucky in that I live near Newport RI where there remains a venerable old shop of stricly British Isle cothing. They are a men’s shop but carry many article for women: kilts, boiled wools, and Harris Tweed. Lovely place with lovely proprieters. Love what you wrote about how we should replenish our wardrobe (with good clothing made ethically).
Do share the name of such a paradise!