I was all ready to leave the topic of Pucci behind and move on when a set of photos appeared in my inbox. Sent by a reader who wishes to remain anonymous, they are of another early Pucci, this one a blouse made from Pucci fabric with a California theme.
The style of the blouse is very much like the last one I posted. I can picture either of them worn over a pair of capris accessorized with sandals and a big sun hat. Both blouses have the same label, though with a different color printing. As I pointed out in my earlier post, this is the second Pucci label, after he expanded to Florence, but before he added “Pucci” to the label.
There is also an I. Magnin label. I. Magnin was a San Francisco based department store that carried luxury lines and high fashion clothing. Not only was this blouse sold at I. Magnin, it was specially designed for the store.
I think it is interesting that the blouse is signed Emilio of Capri, while the label is the later Capri/Florence one.
There is also something else interesting about this blouse, and the other two early Pucci pieces that I showed before. One clue that people use to help identify an authentic Pucci is the squiggly “Emilio” signature found scattered within the print. But none of these early examples have the signature. It was not until the 1960s when Pucci turned to more abstract designs that were very easy to copy that the signature was added. Upon the advice of his buyer at Lord & Taylor, Marjorie Griswold, the signature was added in the mid 1960s.
I hate to think that vintage buyers might have passed on unsigned pieces because they suspected that they might be fakes.
As for the design of the print, does anyone have a clue as to the possible meaning behind those mermaid Indian girls?
If you want to know more about Emilio Pucci, tomorrow I’ll have a link to the best article on his life that I’ve ever read.