When I’m standing in front of a huge pile of textiles, most of which are less than five years old and were cheap junk to begin with, I can’t stop the heart from beating a little faster when I spot a silk wad like the one above. It had that unmistakable look of vintage. I’m not sure if it was the shades of color or the fonts of the letters or the look of the silk itself, but I just knew.
Unfortunately, pulling it out of the bin revealed the awful truth: this scarf was trashed.
And that’s just one of the holes; there are at least fifteen of varying sizes. So why did I throw this in the cart anyway? Because I’m a sucker for an important designer.
Brooke Cadwallader was probably the first great American scarf designer. He began work in the US in 1940, after three years in Paris studying painting and then opening his own studio. But when the Germans arrived in 1940, Cadwallader assisted in the evacuation of Americans from France, and then he returned to the States to resume his business. He opened shop in New York, and became a leader in the scarf trade. According to a 1946 Life article, Cadwallader scarves sold for $15 to $20 each. That means they started at about $175 in today’s dollar!
Cadwallader’s work was clean and uncluttered, a style that became so popular in the 1950s. He used a lot of historical references, and his scarves often had the look of an antique engraving.
Until 1950, all the scarves were produced in Cadwallader’s small Manhattan workshop, so output was relatively small. Don’t expect to find these scarves in the quanties you might expect from, say, Vera. In fact, this is the first Cadwallader scarf I’ve ever found.
In 1950, Cadwallader moved himself and his company to Mexico, where he continued to manufactures scarves and ties. Production ended around 1957, but was resumed in the mid 1960s. I could not find a definite answer on when it ended.
It’s wonderful Lizzie. Shame about the damage but I’d probably have bought it too. There’s nothing like finding a rare item, especially if there’s a name on it. The colours and graphics are fab. Thanks for sharing the information.
LikeLike
The damage proves that someone loved this scarf too, too much to ever let go of it. Always think twice when deciding whether to pass something up because of an imperfection. The hole exemplifies Wabi-Sabi love, and you can learn more at the vintage handkerchief site HandkerchiefHeroes.com. The are considered heroes because they survived for decades, despite the onslaught of kleenex and other disposables that tried to replace them.
LikeLike
Ann, what an interesting perspective. And I loved the HH site. Thanks for posting.
LikeLike
It’s fabulous, and I learned a lot. Thanks!
LikeLike
I wouldn’t have passed that up either. Hopefully you can wear it with the damage disguised.
LikeLike
Very interesting….you seem to know a lot about those scarves. How did you get interested in them?
LikeLike
Terri, I’m interested in textiles in general, and scarves as a part of the overall picture. I really did not know a lot about Cadwallader, other than he was a leading scarf designer in the 40s and 50s. Information about him is scarce, and I mainly used archived newspaper articles to piece together his story.
LikeLike
I am studying Cadwallader and am friends with a man here who helped Mr. Cadwallader design his factory in Mexico. . .let’s be in touch!
LikeLike
That’s fascinating. I’d love to hear more.
LikeLike
I love it! “Tuesday – No meat Same for love”. What do the other days say?
LikeLike
Oh, but my French is very rusty! But I will try to post translations a bit later.
LikeLike
Monday – No meat, but love
Tuesday – No meat, Same for love
Wednesday – No meat, love always
Thursday – No alcohol, but the intoxication of love
Friday – No cake, but the sweetness of love
Saturday – Restricted behavior, complete love
Sunday – Anything goes, Love also
LikeLike
Beautiful I have one of his scarves I will add image later nice story thanks for adding this.
LikeLike
Oh, I’d love to see photos of it, so do please post when you get a chance.
LikeLike
Have 2 scarves one with varied print on different subjects and another with show horses.
Beautiful large sizes and all silk
/Users/lucindashankland/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Masters/2012/03/11/20120311-204524/DSCF8563.JPG
/Users/lucindashankland/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Masters/2012/03/11/20120311-204524/DSCF8579.JPG
/Users/lucindashankland/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Masters/2012/03/06/20120306-212622/DSCF8373.JPG
/Users/lucindashankland/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Masters/2012/03/06/20120306-212622/DSCF8363.JPG
/Users/lucindashankland/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Masters/2012/03/06/20120306-212622/DSCF8361.JPG
Hope you can see these photos!
LikeLike
No, I’m afraid I can’t, even by pasting the address in the URL bar.
LikeLike
Hello and thanks for the info! While researching Brooks Cadwallader I found your blog posting. I can totally relate to your experience of your heart stopping when you find old textiles – I have built and Etsy shop of such finds. I currently have a Brooks Cadwallader that I just found at an antiques shop.
Here is my ETSY store adress so you can check it out: http://www.etsy.com/shop/ShopHavanaBanana
Thanks so much for the info and I will be following your blog!
Jacquelyne
LikeLike
Dear Friends – I have a huge collection of Brooke Cadwallader scarves that belonged to my great aunts from NYC. They are both gone now, but apparently they mailed them every year at Christmas to friends and associates. My aunts knew them because their brother, Seymour Grauer was in the rag trade – fabric designer, I believe. Will post photos if any one is interested – i need to pull them out of the stored suitcases they live in. Im a collector of many things as well, and textiles take up a lot of room when one has a lot of them. Best regards to all, Janis at carldeverter@msn.com
LikeLike
Feel free to post any photos of your scarves, or email them to me and I’ll feature them in a post.
LikeLike
I have one of his large square scarves, mint condition, a map of NYC with various sites and all the boroughs
LikeLike
Brooke Cadwallader was a cousin of mine. My mother was Anne (nee Cadwallader) Allen, I am trying to find more information about him. Do you have anymore information about him or can give me a references to find out more.
LikeLike
This website: http://www.scarfcollector.myby.co.uk/new_page_2.htm has a bit of a bio of your cousin – scroll a little past halfway. You can find some old magazine/newspaper articles, too. Here’s one: http://fultonhistory.com/newspaper%2011/New%20York%20Evening%20Post/New%20York%20NY%20Evening%20Post%201947%20Grayscale/New%20York%20NY%20Evening%20Post%201947%20a%20Grayscale%20-%200147.pdf and here’s another:
http://www.unz.org/Pub/Colliers-1944sep16-00017
Good hunting!
LikeLike
That is a great article, Beth. Thanks so much for sharing it.
LikeLike
Thanls, I had not seen the Colliers artticle before. Lisa Bownlee in Cuernavaca, Mexico, has also been collecting material on Btooke and I will pass it on to her.
Bob Allen, Bedford, PA USA
LikeLike
Brook Cadwallader was my Great Uncle. My brother worked at his Fabrica in Mexico for while. I have a couple of his scarves, wore dresses made from his fabrics as a kid. He also did a number of mens ties that are beautiful as well. I have his scarves framed in my home, my parents have a huge beautiful one of a flower arrangement framed in their home.
LikeLike
I am his nephew. Perhaps I can help. BUT I type [poorly so please be kind.
LikeLike
Got this partially made skirt from an estate sale jumble box. It was wadded up in a plastic bag. I had been looking for something outrageous for the lining of a raspberry colored velvet jacket I’m going to make. If I found enough of “something”, I was going to make a ruffly blouse to match the lining. This was a great find! Upon further inspection of the fabric, after washing it, I found the mark on a selvage edge. Brooke Cadwallader Hand Print “Bouffant” I believe it is silk. Now I don’t know what to do. Haven’t been able to find much of any information on line at all. Boo! Should almost frame it.
LikeLike
Care to send a few photos my way?
LikeLike
Yes! It’s really groovy. I’d say early to mid sixties.
LikeLike
Thanks for the info, I just found a scarf today for $3 at a women’s league sale outside of Chicago. It is raspberry with Greek imagery printed in black. I am so happy to find it is something historical!
LikeLike
I found a Cadwallader scarf among my mothers things, but I don’t think it’s silk, about 15″ x 15″ of an angel in a boat drawn by 2 doves. It doesn’t look like any of his other designs. It feels more like a synthetic. Is there any catalog of his designs anywhere?
LikeLike
Not as far as I know. It’s really hard finding good information about him at all.
LikeLike
I’ve been so curious about Cadwallader scarves and am so happy to find this blog! Years ago at a large outdoor antiques market I got four Cadwallader silk scarves for next to nothing. Three of them are the Christmas greeting ones (one has fancy wrapped gifts around the edges, one has poodles in the windows of a Brownstone and dancing all around outside, and one has Santa in the chimney and reindeer in the windows of (perhaps the same) a Brownstone that shows this address: 120 East 55 Street (home?). The fourth is the orange-y one with doves, but no message. If I can figure out how to add pics, I’ll show you mine!
I think a catalog would be a super idea!
LikeLike
Oh, I’d love to see them. You can email the photos to me at thevintagetraveler@gmail.com.
LikeLike
Pingback: Luck and Brooke Cadwallader | The Vintage Traveler
I was just going through scarves. Old and new. Came across a vintage Brooke Cadwallader and came across your post. Very interesting!
LikeLike
I love Brooke’s work! I have collected roughly 25 scarves! His designs are amazing. I also have not been able to find out much information on him. Thanks for the blog!
LikeLike
You are most welcome. That is some collection, as they are pretty hard to come by.
LikeLike
Hi! Robert Brooke Allen here. Brooke was my cousin on my mother’s side (Anne Cadwallader). Look at: http://bloomersandfrocks.com/brief-history-of-brooke-caldwallader-and-one-special-dress/ for brief history,
LikeLike
Hi Robert, Thanks so much for posting. It really is a great article.
LikeLike
I was just about to list a scarf on ebay and asked my husband if he could read the signature on one corner. It is a Brooke Cadwallader. Looked up the name and discovered your blog. My first instinct was that the scarf is from the 40’s. It features maroon roses/leaves bordering a solid pale beige or dark ivory background. About 17 x 19″. I have no idea what to charge for the scarf…it is in very good condition and is very pretty. I am a vintage clothes lover and am glad that I stumbled upon your site…
LikeLike
Eva, I’m glad you did too. The scarf sounds more like a large hankie.
LikeLike
Thanks for the reply–it is not the right material for a hankie–sort of a gauzy feel to it. Your site is very nice and sort of inspiring for us lovers of vintage items. My son is in Asheville, N.C.–just hanging out–traveling with friends.
LikeLike
That’s interesting. Is it silk? I hope your son is enjoying Asheville. It’s a great little city.
LikeLike
For a collection of Brooke Cadwallader textiles, look at http://www.metmuseum.org/collections/search-the-collections?ft=Brooke+M.+Cadwallade – he was my cousin,
LikeLike
I have this in my possision, and would like to know a little more about it.
thanks
LikeLike
I’ve never seen that design. Nice!
LikeLike
Pingback: Brief History of Brooke Cadwallader and One Special Dress » Bloomers and Frocks
This is great! I just found a Cadwallader scarf at Goodwill today for $2.99! It’s clearly vintage and i googled the name i found in the corner. Imagine my suprise to learn what a treasure I’d found! It’s got a much more complex print than alot of these others, and on google I’ve only seen one remotely like it. It looks like a whole scene of peasents farming, and lords hunting, the manor house is there, it’s really fantastic, all in brown tones with a red border with stars. I would love it if anyone could help me pin down a date or something for when it might have been made!
LikeLike
I was wrong! Once i got it laid out flat I realized that it was a hunt scene!
LikeLike
Without finding an original ad for the scarf, it would probably not be possible to narrow it down to a year. Most of the ones I’ve seen are from the late 1940s.
LikeLike