1960s Chanel-Inspired Davidow Jacket

I mentioned a few days ago that I lucked into a vintage pop-up shop on the streets of Asheville.  One of the great things about Asheville is that there are numerous little alleyways and side streets, many of which are not being well utilized, but which have great charm and potential.  In this case there is outdoor seating for a restaurant, but the space behind it was perfect for a temporary shop.

The business is called the Urban Gypsy, and the young woman who owns it does pop-ups in Asheville and Savannah.  What a perfect combination of cities!

After the disappointment of the very needy Bonnie Cashin I kept looking, hoping that lighten would strike twice.  That’s when I spotted a small group of tweed jackets.

There were a couple of jackets in shades of blue, and here is the one I choose.  I tried it on, and even the older man standing there waiting for his wife to finish up looking gave it a thumbs up.  It was truly a perfect fit.

The icing on the cake was the Davidow label.  Davidow was a high-end ready-to-wear label.  According to the research of Claire Sheaffer, Davidow made both Chanel-inspired suits and Chanel reproductions.  The reproductions actually used Chanel fabrics and in many cases, buttons.  My new jacket is probably of the inspired variety, but the wool plaid tweed is one mighty fine textile.

The jacket has bound buttonholes, something I’d be afraid to risk on such a loosely woven and bulky fabric.

The pockets are functional, and I love how they are cut on the diagonal.

I’m not 100% sure that the buttons are original, but the thread used to sew them does match the color of the lining.  The underside of the buttons is a mottled blue, which indicated these may have faded over time.  I’ll probably replace the buttons, as I bought this to wear and I want blue ones.  I will carefully save the old buttons.

Unfortunately, the lining proves once and for all that Southern women do actually sweat (as opposed to glisten).  The lining is a rayon faille, and is not as luxurious as I like.  Am I crazy for even considering replacing the lining with silk crepe de chine?

The seller found the jacket in Savannah, and it has a nice store label.  I can’t find a thing about Fine’s, but I do remember shopping there on a trip to Savannah in the mid 1970s.  At that time the store was located in a mall, as their downtown was in a downward slide.  Today downtown Savannah is a charming place with nice shops, most of which are local.

 

22 Comments

Filed under Shopping, Vintage Clothing

22 responses to “1960s Chanel-Inspired Davidow Jacket

  1. Lynn

    Beautiful jacket!

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  2. seweverythingblog

    I am curious to know whether the collar in your gorgeous jacket is one layer of fabric or two. If memory serves me right, Claire Shaeffer’s article on Davidow featured a signature one-layer collar on his jackets.
    Thanks for sharing your found treasures.

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  3. Wow, what a fabulous find! I love everything about it. It is tempting to replace the lining, but you don’t know what you’ll find in there. It’s a little risky with that loose tweed.

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  4. This is a real beauty, Lizzie! I think I’d be tempted to change that lining, so, no, I don’t think you are crazy. Hm-m-m, I like that red polka dot dress in the first photo, too. But then, I love polka dots…

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  5. That fabric is amazing. Beautiful jacket.

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  6. Congratulations on this find! This jacket will go with just about anything — from dress-up to blue jeans & chinos (cf advancedstyle.blogspot.com/) — the prices on that sign were pretty amazing, too. Your photos are great.

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  7. Wonderful find! I think I’d go the lazy route and just add some underarm sweat pads to the jacket in whatever fabric you like. That way you don’t have to redo the whole lining, and you can easily replace them again if you need to.

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  8. really pretty jacket, most of the fabric used by Davidow i remember from my early buying trips (and info from my Scottie girl buddy) were froom looms in Scotland – they had a very distinctive look as you already know – and very much their own audience -we all liken the flufffy/bulky lux fabric and cut to Chanel – the buttons give it away…very Brit – not French inspired to me…very Davidow of the period…the collar would not have to be lined in the same fabric…the jacket has a few secrets i think,,,the original owner would never have stained the under arm..dress shields for that price point coustomer..none – the – less…a pretty find…-colors are great!

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  9. Lucky duck! I made one of Claire’s patterns based on a Davidow jacket, so I did a little research on him myself. And now you have a Chanel-esque jacket that you didn’t have to make!

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  10. What a wonderful jacket. The colors and textures are gorgeous, and it’s something you can easily wear with a skirt or pants (or even nice jeans). Lucky you!

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  11. Pingback: 1960s Chanel-Inspired Davidow Jacket, Part II | The Vintage Traveler

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