Wedding attire must be the theme of March, as I was able to attend another exhibition dedicated to weddings, this one at the Charleston Museum. I’ll write more about the museum in another post, but for now I’ll just say that it functions mainly as a history museum for the South Carolina Lowcountry region. They have a fantastic clothing collection, most of it coming from Charleston families. In presenting special fashion exhibitions, they explore not just the clothing, but they have the advantage in many cases, of knowing who owned a garment. Many of their garments are also documented in period photos.
Traditionally, the museum used some of the costume and textile collection as part of the larger displays that told the history of Charleston. About twelve years ago they started having special clothing exhibitions, but the problem was that there was no space to adequately show clothes. I remember looking at a 1920s Worth evening coat that was displayed in a flat case, in a light-filled atrium. Not an ideal situation, in any sense of the word.
Today the situation is entirely different, as a gallery dedicated just to textiles was opened in 2010. It’s a beautiful light-controlled space, with a variety of viewing areas, and with seating for those who need to sit and contemplate (or sketch). The only thing I do not like about it is that all the display areas are behind glass, and that does hinder viewing somewhat, especially if there are interesting details on the back of a garment.
The photo above shows the introduction to the exhibition which consisted of three dresses from different eras. On the left is a dress from 1927, worn by Mary Gaillard, in the middle is a 1892 dress worn by Ethel Sanford in 1892, and on the right is a 1925 dress worn by Emily Gladys Canaday. The rest of the exhibition is arranged in chronological order.The oldest dresses were early 1800s Regency style, but my photo is so poor that it is pointless to post it here.
So I’ll take up the show in 1830, when the dress on the left was worn. The bride was Margaret Izard, and the groom was Nathaniel Russell Middleton. The dress is hand embroidered throughout. In the middle is the 1842 dress of Middleton’s second wife, Anna Elizabeth DeWolf. On the wall is a portrait of the second Mrs. Middleton in her dress. Look carefully to note that her waist was not as small as it first appears to be.
The dress on the right is also from 1842, and was worn by Elizabeth Mary Lesesne Blamyer. And on the far right is a lovely selection of groom’s vests, all of which were made of silk and worn between 1848 and 1860.
The Charleston Museum is very lucky to have this set in their collection. The dress was worn by Louisa Jane Dearing, and the vest was her groom’s, Henry Edmondston. They were married in 1859. According to the notes concerning the dress, “The bodice laces in the back with 28 pairs of tiny bound holes.” Unfortunately that feature was not visible to museum visitors.
Yes, I know this photo is really poor, but the story behind the dress is too good not to share. The dress was worn by Louisa Rebecca McCord in June of 1865. The American Civil War had just ended, and materials were scarce. According to Louisa’s diary, the bride finally located ten yards of white organdy, the only white goods available in Columbia, SC. The price was so high that the family sold their remaining carpet, some chairs, and butter and lard from their plantation in order to pay for the fabric.
These two dresses date from 1883 and 1884, and were creatively positioned in order to show the most prominent features of the dresses, their bustles. These were in a corner with glass on two sides and so visitors could see the slim silhouette of the front and the fullness in back.
I probably need to pause here and talk about color. The overwhelming number of dresses shown were white, or whitish. I made the comment when writing about the bridal costumes at Biltmore that I found it interesting that all the dresses were white when the vogue of white wedding dresses did not come along until 1840. Of course, white wedding dresses did exist before that date, and by the look of things in this exhibition, they were common. An interesting comment was made by Jessamyn: :The main thing that changed in the 19th century was the idea that white was obligatory for a bride.”
Here’s another look at the 1892 dress of Ethel Sanford. The museum also has a matching evening bodice.
At this point I need to stop and put in another plug for Dressed for the Photographer by Joan Severa. Having just read that book helped me see the changes from dress to dress.
The silk dress on the left dates from 1906 and was worn by Sarah Francis. The suit was worn by bride Alma Grace Van Keuren in 1910. What is really interesting is that the suit has a department store label, Louis Cohen & Co, Charleston, S.C. Ready-to-wear for women was still in the early years, and in 1910 most clothing for women was still being made by professional dressmakers or at home.
This dress was worn by Alice Prioleau Ravenel in 1914. Note how the train curves around to the front where it is attached to the dress with a spray of artificial orange blossoms.
These three dresses are from the 1920s. On the left, a velvet dress worn by Harriett C. Arthur in 1922. The middle dress belonged to Annie Kangeter and dates to 1921. The bride’s sister made the dress, which you can see on the bride in the photograph on the wall. The third dress was worn in 1924 by Septima Toomer Holmes.
You can see how styles were becoming less ornamented in the 1928 dress on the left. It was worn by Cornelia Milam, and was made by her mother. The dress in the middle was worn by Ruth Petty Pringle in 1931. It was bought in a Charleston specialty shop, The Frock Shop.
Left to right: 1937, bride Martha Kirk; 1942, bride Jean Walsh; 1945, bride Ruth Raymond Huegel; 1948, Bernice Alice Byrd, but altered in 1989 for her daughter Amy Bassett Cole; 1952, bride Elizabeth Lamis.
The textile gallery also has a section of casees and drawers to display accessories.
And, of course, what is a fashion exhibition without some shoes?
Unveiled runs through July 19, 2016, and I highly recommend it to anyone living or traveling in the Charleston, South Carolina area.