I’m still working on looking closely at antique photographs in order to better place a date on them. In this case I keep wavering between 1890 and 1898. The sleeves are slightly puffed, and are too small to be from the mid 1890s when sleeves could have been filled with helium to make the wearer airborne. That’s a joke, of course, but they were huge, puffy things. The sleeves did begin to get smaller, with some more conservative styles like this one by 1898.
It does look like the blouse has a very high and tight collar. This style came in around 1897
The length of the skirt, however, I’d think would be shorter by 1898. Women played with the idea of wearing knickers while riding, but it was just too radical for most places, and so women bikers settled on a riding skirt a few inches off the ground.
So, help me decide, please. Meanwhile, here is the news:
- There was a great interview with Ruth Porter, the archivist at LL Bean. Their collection began when LL’s secretary saved his things after his death in 1967.
- Gina Locklear is the Sock Queen of Alabama, according to The New York Times. I talked with Gina years ago when she had just started Zkano, and so it’s good to see the business thriving. (And the socks really are outstanding.)
- A disgruntled writer of an article about Rei Kawakubo for Elle magazine bared his soul and burned a bridge or two.
- Meet “Louise the Wheelwoman” as she rides her bicycle around the National Museum of American History.
- Jonathan of The Fashion History Museum explains more about the white wedding dress in history.
- The long-awaited book about Bonnie Cashin will be released this week. It’s written by Stephanie Lake who knew Cashin and inherited her personal archives.
- A Yves Saint Laurent Mondrian dress sold for $27,000 last week.
- In other YSL news, his longtime partner, Pierre Berge, criticized designers for designing “modest” clothing for Muslim women, and thus “taking part in the enslavement of women.” This, of course, opened a can of worms. There are plenty of articles written by angry Muslim women blasting Berge.
- What exactly is curating? The Shovel tells us and it is funny.
- Working for luxury Italian fashion business Brunello Cucinelli has a lot of nice perks, including a cultural allowance.
- ” What does it take to successfully resuscitate a dormant brand?” And why on earth would anyone think we need another luxury label?