Those who have followed this blog for a while know that my interest is mainly American women’s sportswear. But that does not mean that I can’t look to other countries to see how women were adapting dress as sports for women became more popular. When I spotted this Manby catalog from 1892, I had to add it to my collection of print resources.
My high school French is more than a little rusty, but even I could figure out that this catalog was for tailored women’s garments for sports. The title page tells us that here are clothes for travel, campaign, promenade, sea bathing, riding, yachting, and hunting. Yes, I can relate to all that.
Manby was located at 21 Rue Auber, and they advertised as a Maison Anglaise, specializing in tailored clothes for English clients. Later advertisements added Americans to the targeted clientele.
The catalog does not give a lot of information about each model offered for sale. I’m guessing that they knew the models their customers were after.
For the most part, the styles don’t look particularly French to me. In a way it seems like going to Paris only to eat at McDonalds.
But it does give a great look at what English, and probably American, women were looking for in the way of sports clothing in the 1890s.
The clothes look to me as they could have been made in the United States until I got to the illustration on the back cover.
I’ve looked at a lot of images of American women in sportswear, and never have I seen anything that compares to the pants and short “skirt” worn in this illustration. I do have another French print, dated to the 1870s that shows a similar short dress over pants, but it is a caricature.
The artist is Louis Vallet.
How very interesting! Does it list the prices?
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No, it doesn’t. No prices; no descriptions!
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They do look very English altho I don’t know what I would expect French fashion for these activities to look like at that time. I think “campagne” translates to countryside. The shooting ensemble reminds me of Robin Hood!
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Yes, campagne is country, “dans la campagne” means in the country(side); and promenade is basically going for a walk. I’m always amused by that “false friend” especially when it is used in “promenade a cheval” which just means horseback ride! I agree that the clothing doesn’t look very French, but I wasn’t here at that time ….
bonnie in provence
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Interesting perspective!
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The Le Touriste ensemble is rather lovely. Unusual shoulder cape design. There is an overall lightness in the fashions perhaps created by the illustrator. 1892 is a significant date – Vogue magazine started-up. Abercrombie & Fitch opened.
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Le Touriste is one of my favorites. That cape along with the plaid is just lovely.
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You’re always teaching me something new, Lizzie — great post!
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Thanks! I need to get the rest of the catalog translated as it might shed more light on the designs.
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Just spectacular. I can’t stop studying these. The short coats over dresses/detail on cuffs and finishing. Thank you so much for this. Certainly brings me joy in this atmosphere.
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Simple pleasures!
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This is beautiful. I think at this time, English tailoring was regarded as the best, particularly for sportswear, so is it possible that it’s more a case of English-style tailoring aimed at French women?
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Yes, I think that is a possibility. I need to get the rest of the catalog translated, as it might give more insights.
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Interesting and I’d say this department store was capitalizing on selling clothing for the English market from France (and the resulting status of a French label), especially given the names – Doncaster, Windsor and the Constable. Pierre Cardin trained as a tailor at Manby’s – possibly the same store?
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Now that’s downright insightful, that the clothing has english names. Has to be the same Manby’s for Cardin, we could ask him as he is still alive. He is best known around here in provence for his purchase and restoration of the Marquis de Sade’s chateau in La Coste.
bonnie in provence
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I should just call M. Cardin up and ask him!
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I am also amazed by that hunting outfit! Wouldn’t it be wonderful to find photos of women wearing it?
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Yes it would. I can’t imagine how excited I’d be to spot one.
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Do not ignore that the “Maison Anglaise” could also be marketing to the French as well. As I have found from reading Mitford and her contemporaries, who lived occasionally on both sides of the Channel, the French felt that clothes in the English style were often sturdier and much less expensive- value for money, especially when considering sporting clothes.
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Excellent point!
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