Wigs & Surrealism: Surrealist headwear wasn’t limited to hats. Wigs played a major role in the movement. Elsa Schiaparelli, the surrealist couturiere of the time period, was one of the first to make surrealist wigs. She commissioned many of these by Antoine.
Antoine, born Antek Cierplikowski, became the first celebrity hairdresser. He started his career in Paris around 1901, and quickly became a trendsetter for his avant-guard styles. He was the first to dye women’s hair lilac or blue, and also introduced hairstyles that used bold streaks of blond on dark hair. (Very Surrealist, don’t you agree?)
You may see the parallel in Jean Paul Gaultier’s Fall 2006 collection. The hats were made of hair. ( Image courtesy of coolspotters.com)
These images inspired a series of Bonwit Teller displays and publicity photos of a phantome woman with a head of roses hat. This hat completely obscured the face, in accordance with Dali’s paintings. (Image: A scan image from the book Happy Times. Image by Jerome Zerbe. Photo Courtesy of wandernvisuals.com)
Dali also collaborated with Sheila Legge to promote the International Surrealist Exhibition in London of 1936. Legge, a fellow surrealist artist, appeared as The Phantom of Sex Appeal. Legge is dressed in a white satin dress, wearing a hat with roses and ladybirds. (photo courtesy of manchesterconfidential.co.uk)
Surely Phillip Traecy’s Butterfly hat for Alexander McQueen’s FW2006 bears a striking similarity to the version worn by Legge. (Photo courtesy of wicked-halo.com)
Clearly, hats can fit the category of “art to wear”. And what better way to pay homage to an artist than to wear something in his or her honor? I was left wondering if this idea was what inspired Philip Tracey to create this hat , which resembles Dali’s mustache.
photo by Philippe Halsman
That really made me want to be there! My thanks to Monica for sharing this with us.
And ironically, I got a notice from Jillian at the Bard Graduate Center. They will be having a fantastic book sale:
On December 8th through the 11th, and the 15th through the 18th, we will be featuring a 70% discount on many of our current and extensive backlist of BGC Gallery Publications, including: Knoll Textiles, Shaker Design, Marimekko: Fabrics, Fashion, Architecture, and The Sèvres Porcelain Manufactory. This sale is a great compliment to our two current exhibits, Hats: An Anthology by Stephen Jones and American Christmas Cards, 1900-1960, now showing at our gallery. We are also selling copies of the accompanying book to American Christmas Cards, which has just been featured on Amazon’s Top Ten Hot New Releases in Graphic Design.
Information about visiting the Gallery can be found at Bard Graduate Center: Decorative Arts, Design History, Material Culture 18 West 86th Street, New York, NY 10024